The Spanish Invasion

A wave of Spanish restaurants is turning Soho and Nolita into Little Barcelona.

It’s no longer necessary to take a tedious flight to Spain to visit the lively cider houses of Asturias, sample the crisp and golden churros con chocolate of Madrid’s 19th-century cafés, or dine on sweet, hand-sliced Iberico de Bellota ham from the acorn-fed pigs of the Iberian countryside. Just make your way to Soho and Nolita, where a growing wave of restaurants, cafés, and specialty food shops has brought Spanish culinary treasures to NYC.

La Churreria
Mulberry Street has its first café serving churros con chocolate—combining the delights of Spain’s churreria street stands and its traditional cafeterias. Like exotic doughnuts, the churros fill the tiny shop with the aroma of freshly fried dough dusted lightly with sugar. Order a taza of decadent artisanal dipping chocolate in which to dunk the churros; we recommend the spicy Aztec and hazelnut varieties. And in case you want to follow dessert with an actual meal, try one of the bocatas (sandwiches)—specifically the one with crispy calamari and pimiento aioli. And then, what the hell, have another round of dessert.
La Churreria: 284 Mulberry Street, 212.219.0400

Socarrat Paella Bar
Next door to La Churreria is owner Jesus “Lolo” Manso’s ode to paella. Named for the savory crust that develops on the bottom of a paella pan, Socarrat serves both traditional tapas—staples like tortilla Española and patatas bravas—along with eight varieties of paella. Try the all-encompassing paella Socarrat, overflowing with chicken, fish, beef, cuttlefish, mussels, and cockles.
Socarrat Paella Bar: 284 Mulberry Street, 212.219.0101

Boqueria
This stylish, updated tapas bar, named after Barcelona’s famed Boqueria market, dishes out perfectly executed pinxtos and tapas. The open kitchen lets you watch as dishes like decadent salt-cod fritters, bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with almonds and Valdeón, and baby squid grilled a la plancha are prepared with great care and adherence to tradition.
Boqueria: 171 Spring Street, 212.343.4255

Tertulia
The West Village’s Tertulia captures the lively spirit of the chigres (cider houses) found throughout the Asturias region in northern Spain. Here, acclaimed chef Seamus Mullen’s cooking shines in soulful, rustic dishes like mussels served in a broth laced with bacon, tomatoes, peppers, and apple cider. The wood-burning, chimney-style oven and a glass of bubbly cava from Catalonia would make any Spaniard feel at home.
Tertulia: 359 Sixth Avenue, 646.559.9909

Despaña
Sometimes you just want to create a Spanish feast in the confines of your own apartment. In those cases, head first to Despaña for gourmet Spanish food products, including the blood sausage called morcilla, freshly sliced Iberico ham, and the creamy, slightly salty Caña de Cabre goat’s milk cheese from Murcia. Despaña also offers pre-assembled sandwiches, pintxos, and tapas to take home. Pick up a bottle of the rare VORS Viños Viejos Pedro Ximenez sherry at Despaña Vinos y Mas, next door.
Despaña: 408 Broome Street, 212.219.5050
Despaña Vinos y Mas: 410 Broome Street, 212.219.1550

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—Erin Mosbaugh
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